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- Convert 4 cylinder Mustang to V8
- 1979 Ford Mustang 4 cylinder to V8 Brake conversio...
- Mustang Parts Car Demolition
- Mustang Parts Car Demolition Continued
- Mustang Radiator Core Support Removal and Installation
- Painting Engine Compartment
- Bro's 1988 GT Mustang
- Mustang Engine Work
- Mustang Roof and Rear Quarters sectioning
- Mustang Floor Pan Replacement
- Mustang UNDERCOATING
- Bend fuel line like a pro
- Rear Seat and Trunk Patching and Repair
- Time Lapse Vids
- 1G to 3G Alternator Conversion
- Subframe Connector Install
- Power Steering Cooler for Autocross Competitions
- Plastic Welding Dash Repair
- Door Lock Replacement
- Reset Odometer Miles
- More Mustang Rust Repair
- M81 McLaren Research "Rarest Mustang Ever"
Subframe Connector Install
Full Length Sub frame connectors to be installed. Since I am making this into an autocross car I planned on stiffening up the chassis. This will also be very beneficial for future engine mods. If I ever get the finances for a 331 Stroker kit the reinforcements needed to the chassis will already be there.
The pic above is a picture of the passenger side Cross member mount. this will have to be cut and flattened out with a hammer against the sub frame. Once the sub frame connector is in place I will weld the points that were cut to the sub frame connector to add strength. Picture below is the driver's side sub frame connector. Notice that the 1979 Ford mustang has the fuel line run straight across the sub frame. Fuel line will need to be cut and replaced. Currently I have the fuel tank back in the car but it has not had fuel added to it yet. I have been waiting to get these sub frame connectors added.
A nice add-on from Steeda is a torque box reinforcement plate. I had to do some significant pounding and prying on the torque boxes to try and straighten them out. Most get crushed from years of Jacking or putting on lifts. Below is the plate welded into place.
A little trick to get the "C" Clamp moved into proper position was to add a little tension with a jack and a block of wood.
I used three Jacks in total. I am by myself doing all of this, so this made my life a little easier, a little ingenuity never hurt.
I tried to initially get things all clamped at once and that got things close but there appeared to be a need to finesse things a little so I decided to start welding from the back and work my way forward. Once one point was anchored then I could twist and pull the sub frame connector whichever direction needed to get things straight as an arrow in line all the way down. I love the fact that these came with the seat reinforcements as well.
DRIVER'S SIDE TORQUE BOX WAS IN SAD SHAPE.
Sometimes you need to give a little TLC with a slide hammer. lol
Next was to weld in my 1/8th inch reinforcement plate
I also had to fix some fuel line issues. I am running a new fuel line in front portion of car.
There was a Zip tie to assist clip here before and I could see why that clip does not hold the fuel line well anymore.
Coated with copper weldable primer in areas to be welded on again. Rear of sub frame connector will be welded to this contact point. Fuel line work will continue after Steeda full length sub frame connector is welded in on driver's side.
After things were in place I welded the driver side Sub-frame connector in the same way I did the passenger side.
Driver side fuel line needed to completely be rerouted. under the car.