Mustang Floor Pan Replacement

Here is the Time Lapse Video from the Work done in Winter.. 
Below are the highlights of the job detailed pictures.
Tar, tin and rust removal


 Look at this mess. Yuck! Tar turns to rock you need Engine Bright and a torch with a putty knife to clean this mess up with then some cutting. 


















Transmission Crossmember Floor mount was removed to be cut in half and widened to accept the Ford Racing Adjustable Crossmember which is needed for my Tremec TKO 500 transmission. Before removal mark exact placement on the front subframe of the car.


 Test fitted crossmember


This is the Ford Racing Adjustable Transmission Crossmember


Ford Racing did not specify to do this in their instructions, but I added in piece to make the mount whole again for added strength and extra mount point to the floor pan.


Here are the extra mounting points added and also coated with Weldable primer again.


Here is the floor pan squeezed into place I left the seat mount bar intact since this is a major structural point and provides additional point of reference for proper floor pan height. Some people cut them out, but I did not. I should note as well that I had my neighbor next door help me wiggle the floor pan in between the seat mount bar and the front subframe.  



Welding points added 


Many Welding Points. So far this car project has consumed 3 100 lb tanks of Argon CO2 mix and over 13 lbs of Mig Welding wire.





When in confined spaces always wear a respirator and appropriate safety gear. While working on this car I did catch a piece of metal in my eye while wearing safety glasses. It ricocheted off of the transmission valley and into the corner of my eye. I now wear goggles in those type of spaces.


Lots of welding both inside the car and on the bottom of the car. Their is a difference between fireproof and fire resistant. You learn real quick under the car. 



Not Just TAR and TIN to remove, here is a chunk of Stainless steel lol



Sometimes you just need a little Fire and putty knife




This would be me learning my lesson from the other side of the car now wearing goggles. Darn ricochets. 






These broken fuel lines are from Fort Hood when a welder didn't listen to the owner and lift the car by the subframe as instructed. He crushed the fuel lines then refused to work on it due to the fuel all over the place. There is a reason why I don't let shops work on my vehicles anymore. 



More fabrication fun. Made from scratch a new mounting point for the real driver side floor board.




This is where I had to remove Bends in the replacement pan so that it would work for the original and first year Fox Body Mustang. 



Although advertised works for 1979 through 1993 Mustang these floor boards will not work without modifications for the 1979 Ford Mustang. 





Here is my brother who came out and helped out for a weekend on the floor board and inner & outer rocker area. 



Mouse nest found inside the Rocker. This car was rust proofed at one point, but that will not stop Mouse Pee if the car is neglected and left rot under a tree like this one was before I got it. 







After everything was completed I moved on to the Seam Sealing using Lord Fusion No Sag Seam Sealer. I used over $200.00 in seam sealer to coat every weld in and out of the car. Then I used Chassis Saver for the undercoating, which is an excellent industrial product. If you would like to see undercoating pics Click the "Mustang UNDERCOATING" at the top of the page.

Caution!!! Remove fuel tank and lines before doing this or at least be advised and make sure that you know right where things are. I had the fuel tank out, but I did accidentally hit one of the fuel lines and didn't realize till I put everything together and noticed that I wasn't getting fuel from the tank to the carb. This is what happens when MIG welding wire shoots through and makes slightest contact... This is why it's better to have the car apart for these type of jobs.





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